Bikepacking Scotland
Dates: 26 May - 22 June 2026
Length: 28 Days
Start: Edinburgh
Finish: Glasgow
Total Distance: 1302 km
Elevation Gain: 15,400 m
Type: Solo, a mix of camping, bothies and accommodation
Scotland was the first month of my four-month bikepacking journey across Europe. I only started planning a month before departure and booked my flights just three weeks before leaving. I wanted to do something big, something challenging, and somewhere far from home—all on my own.
In the week before I left Melbourne, I was excited but also nervous. Those nerves disappeared as soon as I started riding out of Edinburgh Airport. Everything immediately felt right. Over the next 28 days, I explored the Cairngorms, the far north of mainland Britain, the Orkney Islands and the Highlands, discovering just how incredible Scotland is for bikepacking.
This blog is a day-by-day account of that journey. I hope it inspires you to experience Scotland by bike, whether it’s your first overnight trip or a longer adventure.
Day 1 - 16 The Pictish Trail (Edinburgh to Dunnet Head)
Day 16 - 19 Orkney Islands (St Margaret’s Hope to Scrabster)
Day 20 - 28 Badger Divide (Inverness to Glasgow)
Itinerary
Day 0: Melbourne → Doha → Edinburgh
Day 1: Edinburgh → Edinburgh
15.7km · 110m
After more than 24 hours of travelling from Melbourne, I landed in Edinburgh and assembled my bike at the airport before setting off. There’s something special about being able to ride straight from the terminal and begin an adventure under your own power. My first few kilometres followed a peaceful canal into the city, with sunshine, colourful flowers and the long daylight hours of a Scottish spring making for a memorable start.
Although my body clock was still somewhere over Australia, I couldn’t have asked for a better first day. Staying with a Warmshowers host was a wonderful introduction to Scotland’s hospitality and the perfect way to recover before the journey north began.
Day 2: Edinburgh → Lomond Hills
71.5km · 860m
Before leaving Edinburgh, I spent the morning exploring the city’s historic streets, castles and monuments. It was the perfect way to ease into the trip before joining the Pictish Trail and heading out into the countryside.
The riding offered an incredible variety of terrain, from quiet country roads and forest tracks to farm lanes and flowing singletrack. Every few kilometres the landscape seemed to change. I finished the day wild camping in Lomond Hills Regional Park after a rewarding ride through beautiful weather. It was the perfect reminder that Scotland is an incredible place to explore by bike.
Day 3: Lomond Hills → Dundee
55.0km · 610m
The day began with a short ride into town to refill water before continuing north. Along the way I discovered another of Scotland’s community centres, complete with free Wi-Fi, toilets and even a community pantry. These small local facilities became one of the unexpected highlights of the trip.
The route continued through rolling countryside filled with wildflowers and quiet roads before arriving in Dundee. Another Warmshowers stay meant a hot shower, a comfortable bed and the chance to meet more generous people who make cycle touring such a rewarding experience.
Day 4: Dundee → Edzell
74.4km · 460m
Leaving Dundee, the route followed the coast towards Arbroath before turning inland through peaceful farmland. A strong tailwind made the kilometres pass quickly, and despite the breezy conditions it was an enjoyable day with gentle climbing and wide open views.
That evening I found a quiet wild camping spot near Edzell. Scotland’s outdoor access laws make it possible to camp responsibly in beautiful places, and it quickly became one of my favourite parts of travelling here. After cooking dinner beside my tent, I settled in for another peaceful night outdoors.
Day 5: Edzell → Ballater
62.7km · 990m
Today’s ride entered the Cairngorms National Park, where the scenery became more remote and the climbs more challenging. The long descents were every bit as enjoyable as the climbs were demanding, and the changing landscape made every effort worthwhile.
I met another bikepacker riding the trail in the opposite direction, the first Pictish Trail cyclist he had seen for hundreds of kilometres. Moments like these remind you how connected the bikepacking community is, no matter where you are. A hot shower at the campsite in Ballater and a quiet evening beside the River Dee rounded off a fantastic day.
Day 6: Ballater → Ballindalloch
70.7km · 1,040m
Another day through the Cairngorms brought some of the most spectacular scenery of the trip so far. Snow could still be seen on distant mountains while the trail wound through forests, open moorland and alongside the River Avon. Some sections were slow and demanding, but the constantly changing views made every kilometre worthwhile.
I also spotted my first Highland cows, an iconic Scottish sight I had been hoping to see. By evening I had found another peaceful picnic area to camp, once again appreciating how easy Scotland makes it to enjoy the outdoors responsibly.
Day 7: Ballindalloch → Findhorn
56.5km · 460m
Rain arrived overnight and stayed for much of the morning, but the route became faster and smoother as I joined the Dava Way. The old railway line offered gentle gradients and flowing riding through beautiful countryside, making it one of the most enjoyable sections of the week.
I reached Findhorn in time to visit the local bakery before settling into the community hostel for a well-earned rest. After seven consecutive days of riding since arriving in Scotland, it felt wonderful to have a roof over my head. Findhorn’s peaceful atmosphere and focus on sustainable living made it the perfect place to slow down before continuing north.
Day 8: Findhorn (Rest Day)
8.3km · 30m
After a full week of riding, it was time to slow down. Findhorn was the perfect place for a rest day, with its peaceful atmosphere and renowned ecovillage. I spent the morning stretching with some gentle yoga before wandering around the village, browsing local shops and enjoying the slower pace of life.
Rest days are an important part of any long bikepacking trip. They give your body time to recover, but they also allow you to appreciate the places you pass through rather than simply riding from one destination to the next. Findhorn is well worth adding to any cycling itinerary through northern Scotland.
Day 9: Findhorn → Balloch (Inverness)
55.6km · 380m
The rain returned for most of the day, but the riding was relatively gentle with a mix of quiet roads, forest trails and singletrack. Even in wet weather, Scotland has a way of feeling beautiful, with mist hanging over the countryside and every shade of green looking even more vibrant.
I stopped at Moray Waste Busters, a fantastic community reuse shop, before continuing towards Inverness. By the time I reached my Warmshowers host I was soaked and covered in mud, but once again I was welcomed with incredible generosity. A hot shower, warm meal and good conversation quickly turned a wet day into another memorable one.
Day 10: Balloch → Strathpeffer
61.3km · 720m
Rain showers continued throughout the day as I made my way through Inverness and on towards Strathpeffer. Despite the weather, there were still plenty of highlights, including a cosy café stop in Beauly where a hot meal was the perfect excuse to escape the rain for a while.
Bikepacking isn’t always about perfect weather. Some of the best memories come from the simple comforts after a challenging day, and arriving at another welcoming Warmshowers home made the muddy kilometres completely worthwhile.
Day 11: Strathpeffer → Ardgay
82.9km · 1,000m
The sunshine finally returned as I left Strathpeffer, following an old railway before climbing into quieter and more remote landscapes. The route gradually gained elevation before rewarding me with one of the best descents of the entire trip through Diebidale Valley. It was fast, scenic and incredibly fun.
That evening I stayed with another Warmshowers host in Ardgay. Throughout Scotland I was continually amazed by the kindness of complete strangers who opened their homes to travelling cyclists. Their generosity became one of the defining memories of the journey.
Day 12: Ardgay (Rest Day)
6.8km · 50m
A short ride without luggage was all that was on the schedule today. It felt surprisingly light and fast after carrying fully loaded bikepacking bags for nearly two weeks.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing, catching up on a few jobs and enjoying a proper break before heading further north towards the remote Highlands.
Day 13: Ardgay → Helmsdale
80.0km · 950m
Today’s ride was one of my favourites. Quiet roads climbed steadily through the Highlands before giving way to long, flowing descents surrounded by open landscapes. The weather changed constantly between sunshine, clouds and showers, making every hour feel different from the last.
I finished the day camping beside the river in Helmsdale, with access to public facilities and a welcoming local restaurant nearby. Scotland continues to surprise me with how easy and enjoyable it is to travel by bike, from its quiet roads to the friendliness of the people I met along the way.
Day 14: Helmsdale → Altnabreac
53.4km · 830m
The day began with a busy stretch of road before the route turned onto rougher tracks through one of the most remote areas of the trip. A long section of mud and bog meant several kilometres of pushing my bike, reminding me that bikepacking isn’t always about riding. Sometimes progress is slow, but that’s all part of the adventure.
Once back on gravel roads, the wide open landscapes were breathtaking. Heavy showers and even a burst of hail couldn’t take away from the experience. That evening I ended up spending the night in an abandoned building after losing a battle with midges while trying to camp nearby. It was my first proper encounter with the midges.
Day 15: Altnabreac → Thurso
58.7km · 420m
After a peaceful night in the bothy, I set off across the Flow Country, one of the largest blanket bogs in the world. The gravel roads through Forsinard were quiet and surrounded by wide open landscapes before the route eventually joined the coast for the final kilometres into Thurso.
Reaching Britain’s most northerly town felt like a real milestone. I celebrated with lunch from a local bakery, visited the town museum and had my bike gear cable replaced before settling in with another Warmshowers host. After days of camping and remote riding, it was the perfect place to recharge before the next adventure.
Day 16: Thurso → Dunnet Head → Gills Bay → St Margaret’s Hope → Kirkwall
67.1km · 550m
The morning began with a ride to Dunnet Head, the northernmost point of mainland Britain and the official end of the Pictish Trail. Standing at the cliffs overlooking the sea was a special moment and a chance to reflect on everything the trail had offered over the previous two weeks.
From Gills Bay, I caught the ferry across the Pentland Firth to Orkney. The ride from St Margaret’s Hope to Kirkwall crossed a series of islands linked by causeways, with turquoise water, green fields and wide open skies creating a completely different landscape from mainland Scotland. It was a beautiful introduction to Orkney and one of the highlights of the trip.
Day 17: Kirkwall (Rest Day)
A rest day in Kirkwall provided time to explore Orkney’s largest town at a slower pace. I wandered through the historic streets, visited local museums, independent bookshops and St Magnus Cathedral, while also enjoying a relaxed café lunch.
Later in the day, my host took me to see some of Orkney’s famous archaeological sites and coastal scenery. Travelling by bike allows you to cover a lot of ground, but spending time with locals often provides a deeper appreciation of the places you visit.
Day 18: Kirkwall → Birsay
45.0km · 420m
Strong headwinds made this one of the hardest riding days of the trip. Progress was slow along Orkney’s exposed coastline, with rain arriving later in the afternoon and very little shelter from the weather.
Despite the conditions, visiting the Earl’s Palace and walking across the tidal causeway to the Brough of Birsay made the effort worthwhile. That evening, several bikepackers gathered in the campsite’s laundry room to escape the wind and rain. Sharing stories with fellow travellers reminded me how welcoming the bikepacking community can be.
Day 19: Birsay → Skara Brae → Stromness → Scrabster → Thurso
26.9km · 280m
The morning remained wet and windy, so there was no rush to leave camp before riding to Skara Brae. Walking through the remarkably well-preserved Neolithic village and nearby Skaill House was a fascinating glimpse into Scotland’s ancient history before continuing to Stromness for the ferry back to the mainland.
As the ferry crossed back towards Scrabster, I looked out across the dramatic cliffs of Hoy and reflected on how far the journey had already taken me. Every day I woke somewhere new, travelling entirely under my own power. That freedom is one of the greatest rewards of bikepacking.
Day 20: Thurso → Inverness → Drumnadrochit
35.8km · 520m
An early morning bus carried me and my bike from Thurso back to Inverness, where I began the next stage of the adventure on the Badger Divide. After leaving the city, the route followed the Great Glen Way through forests and alongside Loch Ness, returning to the gravel tracks and woodland trails I had been missing.
The riding was relaxed and enjoyable, with walkers sharing the trail and plenty of opportunities to stop and admire the scenery. Reaching Drumnadrochit early in the afternoon left time to enjoy the campsite, stretch beside Loch Ness and prepare for the more challenging days ahead.
Day 21: Drumnadrochit → Blackburn of Corrieyairack
44.3km · 1,230m
The Great Glen Way continued to deliver spectacular scenery, although some sections required pushing the bike up steep climbs before rewarding me with flowing singletrack and incredible Highland views. After resupplying in Fort Augustus, I began the long climb towards Corrieyairack Pass.
The higher I climbed, the quieter everything became. I spent the night alone in Blackburn of Corrieyairack Bothy, completely disconnected from the outside world. Somewhere during the day I also passed the 1,000-kilometre mark of the trip, making it a fitting place to pause and appreciate just how much Scotland I had explored by bike.
Day 22: Blackburn of Corrieyairack → Loch Ossian
67.3km · 1,110m
I left the bothy under cloudy skies and climbed the final section to Corrieyairack Pass, pushing my bike over the steepest parts. Although the views from the summit were hidden by cloud, the long descent and the quiet gravel roads that followed made for an enjoyable day through the Highlands.
As the kilometres passed, I crossed paths with several other bikepackers, a reminder that this route is becoming a favourite among off-road cyclists. I had planned to camp at Loch Ossian Youth Hostel, but a last-minute cancellation meant I could enjoy a warm bed instead. After another long day on the bike, it felt like a well-earned treat.
Day 23: Loch Ossian → Kilvrecht Campsite
34.5km · 320m
After overnight rain, I took my time getting started before leaving Loch Ossian behind. It was also the first day of my period and I was glad that It was a shorter day of riding. The route climbed steadily at first, rewarding the effort with spectacular views across the surrounding mountains. One of the highlights of the day was the long descent towards Loch Rannoch, where quiet forest roads followed the shoreline through peaceful woodland.
Rather than taking the more challenging option over another hill, I chose the easier road beside the loch. One of the joys of bikepacking is that there is no right or wrong choice—it’s about travelling at your own pace and enjoying the journey. Kilvrecht Campsite was the perfect place to stop for the night before the final push south.
Day 24: Kilvrecht Campsite → Killin
44.4km · 790m
The wind stoped last night and midges came. Somehow a few midges got inside my tent and I woke up with 50 bites on my face in the morning. I also ate my breakfast in the toilet block to stay away from them and it was not pleasant at all. Once on the bike, the route crossed two more climbs before descending towards Loch Tay. Although the rain returned and hid many of the views, the downhill sections were great fun.
I arrived in Killin early enough to settle into a small camping pod for my scheduled rest day. After weeks of alternating between tents, hostels, bothies and Warmshowers stays, having a cosy space to relax, dry my gear and prepare some simple meals felt wonderfully luxurious.
Day 25: Killin (Rest Day)
Heavy rain arrived overnight, making it the perfect day to stay indoors. I spent the day drinking tea, practising yoga, catching up on messages, planning the next stages of the journey and simply enjoying the opportunity to slow down.
Long-distance bikepacking isn’t only about the riding. Rest days are just as important, allowing both body and mind to recover before setting off again. Taking time to pause made me appreciate the journey even more.
Day 26: Killin → Callander
47.8km · 410m
The sunshine returned just as I left Killin, making for one of the most enjoyable riding days of the trip. Much of the route followed a peaceful rail trail through forests and open countryside, with an easy pace that encouraged frequent stops to take in the scenery.
I arrived in Callander early and spent the afternoon wandering around the lively town, exploring its cafés, shops and local businesses. It was another reminder that Scotland’s villages are full of character and make excellent overnight stops for cyclists. My warmshowers hosts were so welcoming and their garden was beautiful.
Day 27: Callander → Milngavie
60.1km · 780m
It was the final full day on the bike in Scotland. The route passed beautiful lochs, forests and the charming village of Aberfoyle before joining the popular West Highland Way. With the weather warm and sunny, the trails were busy with walkers, runners and cyclists all enjoying the outdoors.
There was no need to rush. I took my time, stopped for local treats along the way and reflected on the past four weeks. As Glasgow drew closer, I realised I wasn’t ready for the journey to end. Scotland had exceeded every expectation. My warmhower host was wonderful and I had a very comfortable stay. I would love to host others and pay it forward when I return home.
Day 28: Milngavie → Glasgow
12.1km · 60m
The final morning was a short and relaxed ride into Glasgow. As I rolled into the city, it slowly sank in that I had completed a full circuit of Scotland by bicycle. I spent the following 3 days in Glasgow resting and exploring the city before flying to Amsterdam.
Gear
I rode my 2018 Liv Tempt 1 hardtail mountain bike—the only bike I own. It’s a versatile bike that has handled everything from local overnighters to this four-month European adventure, and I never felt limited by it on Scotland’s mix of roads, gravel and trails.
For this longer trip, I made one major change to my setup by adding a rear rack and replacing my saddle bag with a dry bag. It was easier to pack, provided a little more storage, and worked much better for carrying four months’ worth of gear.
The items highlighted in green in the gear list below were new for this trip. The additions I appreciated most were a third set of cycling clothes, an iPad Mini and a lightweight yoga mat, which made rest days much more comfortable.
Although this was my first international bikepacking trip, I’d previously flown with my bike to ride Western Australia’s Munda Biddi Trail, so I already knew how to pack it into a cardboard bike box. Flying with a bike was much easier than I expected and definitely something I’d do again.
Route & Navigation
I combined three routes for the Scottish leg of my four-month European bikepacking trip: the Pictish Trail, Orkney Islands, and the Badger Divide. I chose the Pictish Trail because it starts in Edinburgh, allowing me to assemble my bike at the airport and begin riding straight away. Several people recommended visiting Orkney, and it ended up being one of the highlights of the trip. I finished with the Badger Divide, which showcases some of Scotland’s best Highland scenery.
I used Komoot for navigation with my phone mounted on a Quad Lock. Running navigation all day used a lot of battery, so I carried two 10,000 mAh power banks and usually recharged everything every second day while staying at a campsite, hostel or with a Warmshowers host.
Logistics
Travelling with a bike in Scotland was easy. After landing in Edinburgh, I assembled my bike at the airport and rode straight into the city. I also took the ferries to and from the Orkney Islands, where carrying my bike was free and the process was simple.
To connect the Pictish Trail with the Badger Divide, I booked and caught an Ember electric bus from Thurso to Inverness. The fare was just £2, my bike travelled free.
At the end of the trip, I collected a cardboard bike box from a bike shop in Glasgow, packed my bike, and caught an Uber to the airport. Overall, Scotland was a very bike-friendly and straightforward place to travel.
Food and Accomodation
To keep costs low, I prepared most of my own meals. Breakfast was usually porridge, lunch was a homemade sandwich or wrap, and dinner was often pesto pasta with vegetables. Every now and then I treated myself to a café, tea room or fish and chips, especially on rainy days or when I wanted somewhere warm to relax. My average food cost for the trip was £10 per day.
The longest stretch without a supermarket was between Fort Augustus and Killin, where I carried four days of food. Most riders complete this section in two days, but I chose to slow down and enjoy the journey.
I spent about half the trip wild camping and half staying indoors. Scotland’s outdoor access rights made camping easy, and my favourite spots were quiet picnic areas with benches and nearby toilets. The rest of the time I stayed in hostels, camping pods, bothies and with Warmshowers hosts. Whether it was a real bed or just my sleeping mat on the floor, having a roof, a shower and the chance to meet such welcoming people was always appreciated.
Highlights
The freedom to wild camp almost anywhere while following the Scottish Outdoor Access Code.
The incredibly long daylight hours, giving me plenty of time to ride, explore and relax each day.
The huge variety of terrain, from quiet country roads and forest trails to gravel tracks and remote Highland passes.
Comfortable riding temperatures, usually between 10–15°C, which were ideal for cycling.
The kindness of my Warmshowers hosts and all the wonderful people I met along the way.
Endless wildflowers, beautiful scenery and constantly changing landscapes.
Riding through Diebidale Valley and the section between Strathpeffer and Ardgay, which was my favourite day of the trip.
The long descent into Helmsdale after climbing through the Highlands.
Crossing the vast landscapes of the Flow Country.
Exploring the Orkney Islands, which I’m so glad I added to my route.
Spending a night alone in Blackburn of Corrieyairack Bothy, one of the most memorable experiences of the journey.
Discovering Scotland’s rich history and culture, from castles to Neolithic villages.
Slowing down and enjoying my well-earned rest days.
Lowlights
Unloading my bike to lift it over gates, across footbridges or up and down stairs.
The occasional stretches of busy roads, although they were generally short and unavoidable.
A herd of cows that blocked the trail and forced me to backtrack.
Midges! Thankfully I only encountered them on three nights, but they certainly made an impression. The first time they forced me to move camp, the second time they attacked while I was using the toilet near a bothy, and on the third night I woke up with around 50 bites on my face after a few got inside my inner tent somehow overnight.
Summary
Looking back, I couldn’t have asked for a better start to my four-month bikepacking journey across Europe. Scotland challenged me with steep climbs, changing weather and the occasional swarm of midges, but it rewarded me with spectacular scenery, quiet roads and trails, fascinating history, and some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met.
Over the past month I rode through the Cairngorms, explored the far north of mainland Britain, crossed to the Orkney Islands, followed ancient trails, stayed in remote bothies, camped beside lochs and rivers, and was welcomed into homes across the country through the incredible Warmshowers community. I plan to pay it forward wEvery day brought something different, and that variety is what made the journey so memorable.
Scotland proved to be one of the best places I have ever travelled by bike. The scenery is spectacular, the access to nature is remarkable, and the people are incredibly welcoming. The freedom to wild camp responsibly, the long summer daylight hours, excellent cycling routes and reliable public transport all make it an incredibly easy country to explore on two wheels. Whether you’re planning your first overnight bikepacking trip or a multi-week adventure, Scotland has something to offer.
This trip also reminded me that great adventures don’t always require years of planning. Just one month after deciding to go—and only three weeks after booking my flights—I found myself riding out of Edinburgh Airport to begin an unforgettable journey. If you’ve ever thought about trying a bikepacking adventure, Scotland is a place I cannot recommend highly enough. I know I’ll be back one day to explore even more of this incredible country.
